Dog trick to cure a nuisance barker training buddy to speak on command

All breeds and sizes of dogs can be taught easily to speak, and the way to go about it is to call your dog, show him a treat and say “Speak.” He will not understand what you mean and will probably at first jump for it, and then sit down and eye it attentively; finally, he will get impatient and utter a sharp bark, which is what you have been waiting for, and the instant he does so reward him with the treat.

A dog which is slow in barking can be encouraged to do so by your imitating a bark, as the chances are he will reply to it, and if you reward him he will learn to bark as soon as he hears the word “speak.”

After a dog has been taught to bark once, you can teach him to bark any number of times, for when he has learned to expect a reward after barking once and you do not give it to him he is apt to bark again or until you give him a signal to stop.

Dogs are very observing and the signal to stop barking can be so slight that your friends will not detect it, such as a movement of the foot or hand, a dropping of the eyelids or a shifting of your gaze, and if you keep up a running fire of conversation and address your dog as if he were a human being his performance will be much more impressive and perplexing.

As an illustration, if you are exhibiting your dog to an audience and want him to speak, don’t simply say “speak,” but address him something like this: “Now, Buddy, all the ladies and gentlemen present are very anxious to hear you speak.” Put a slight emphasis on the word “speak” and your dog will catch it, but it will appear to the audience as if the dog understood the entire sentence and not only the one word “speak.” Of course, when training the young dog you should use only the word “speak” and that distinctly and free from other words, so as not to confuse him.

If your dog knows how to speck on command, you can try to teach “singing” – which is to teach him to howl on command. It is not expected that your dog will produce any melody but only repeat in a mechanical way a series of whines and barks.

Teach him to “sing” in the following manner. Try to imitate a whine yourself and try to get him to imitate the noise you make and to a certain degree, reach the pitch and style of noise make by you, be it a howl, whine or bark and with constant practice, a dog can and will learn to follow your tone quite accurately.

As your dog learn to follow your barking, say “sing” instinctively to associate this action. Praise and treat plentifully during training to encourage him further. Exercise him on a regular basis will help him to learn to sing in no time on your command.

“Speak” and “Sing” are useful lessons in curbing a nuisance barking dog. Let your dog understand that barking and whining is only allowed on command. Simply ignore your dog whenever he barks and whine for your attention. Vice versa, give him lots of praise or treats when he barks on command. If your dog understands this lesson, he will no longer be a nuisance barker and be a good quiet boy for a long time to go.

Cats dogs - soul mates

Soul Mates?

I had heard more than once how Chows are very cat like in their demeanor and attitudes and since I have had two of them in my life I can confirm this! Given this similarity I was still unprepared for my current Chow’s love of cats. My last dog chased cats like every genetically correct pup should do, so I was amazed at my current pup and her feline fascination.

My pal Keisha was only five months old when she met her first cat. His name was Pongo and he was also five months old. We were visiting with family in Omaha Nebraska for Christmas and Keisha was determined to make friends with Pongo.

Pongo would have nothing to do with her!

They tip toed around each other for three days even coming nose to nose eventually. Then on Boxing Day we had just finished our lunch of leftovers…you know turkey sandwiches and such, when we heard a crash in the kitchen. Assuming nothing serious we were slow to react.

When we finally moseyed into the kitchen to get going on the post lunch cleanup they were caught in the act! There they were…Pongo and Keisha nose to nose eating the turkey that someone (?!?!?) had pushed off of the counter onto the floor. They had a fine feast together and even after their tag team mischief, Pongo was still reluctant to become fast friends although I think he was beginning to warm up to the idea, after all Keisha had eaten the turkey and not him!

Unfortunately we had to leave before the relationship was cemented. We have not seen Pongo since but Keisha responds most enthusiastically to his name still, over three years later.

Keisha is almost four years old now and since meeting Pongo she has tried to make friends with every cat she meets. They have all wanted absolutely nothing to do with her. And then came MOJO.

Mojo is owned by a neighbour and is an outdoor cat. He totally suits his name and struts through the “hood” as though he owns it and has complete control over all that goes down in it. He definitely has his MOJO goin on!

At first Keisha approached him cautiously, and he would bat at her with his paws, but never with claws out. Slowly but surely they came closer and closer to each other. There was the dancing around each other period that looked really funny as each would take their turn jumping forward then backward not unlike some ritual. Then came the purring and then the rolling over and belly sniffing. After that Mojo began to walk around and under Keisha strategically putting his tail in her face. She managed to maintain her aloof dignity when he does the tail in face thing. All of this has progressed to Mojo coming for walks with us, he come to visit and waits at the door for Keisha to come out to play. Keisha will put her paw on his bum to get the game of chase going and if Mojo is in the mood he will start the game by running or he will roll onto his back and swat at Keisha with all four paws. Mojo is the alpha in the relationship in spite of his 10 lbs to Keisha’s 60!

It is the most wonderful thing to observe and the neighborhood is mesmerized by these two fast friends.

To see them together one wonders why some cats and dogs get along and others want to destroy each other. Is it perhaps a past life spent together? Early influences like Pongo? Maybe Keisha was a cat in her last life and thus the affinity for cats and cat like behaviour? Or are they just all very different souls with very different personalities and perspectives? Who knows for sure? All I know is that my heart always warms when I see them together and am awed by this amazing friendship that truly looks like soul mates in action.

Perfect cat box for your cat

By the end of this article, you should have gained enough new knowledge on this subject to feel like a pro. Household pet cats definitely need litter boxes in which they do their business. Just like people, these feline friends can get finicky over this matter, so it is very important that they make sure the litter box they have for their pet cat suits the cats preferences; after all, it is the cat that is going to use it. But the owner should also consider his own convenience regarding this matter; he should consider his budget for the cat box as well as the ease of cleaning it.

Choosing the perfect cat box can be beneficial to both your cats health as well as the owners. The important thing is that the cat box must be appealing to the cat and comfortable for use. Rest assured, the cat's satisfaction also guarantees success.

In finding the perfect cat box, here are some things that must be considered:

Size and Depth:

This maybe determined by the number of cats there are in the home. However, it is ideal if the number of cats in the home determines the number of cat boxes available rather than the size. For kittens, shallow cat boxes, no more than three inches deep are advisable. For adult cats on the other hand, those about six inches high are desirable. The prescribed area of the litter box is at least 24 inches in length or width.

Material of the Box:

Heavy and durable plastic is the most advisable material for a cat box and is also the most inexpensive variety in stores. Plus with their simplicity in style, cleaning can prove to be a breeze.

Ease of Cleaning:

Basic flat boxes are easy to clean because of their simple design. There is no need to remove any lids or covers to scoop or clean. However, some cats frequently kick litter out of the box so if you choose this option, you had better have a whisk broom and a dust pan always at hand.

Covered boxes usually minimize the trouble of having cat litter and waste scattered outside the box since they have hoods which keep all the litter inside. Covered boxes also tend to become stinky due to poor ventilation.

There are also those self-cleaning cat boxes available in the market. The self-cleaning feature of these boxes keep the cat box neat and tidy, but they also require some cleaning from the owner. Every few days the receptacle must be emptied of urine and feces and sometimes the rake does not get every bit of cat waste so there may be an occasional need for scooping them out.

Style and Features:

There is a wide variety of designs, styles and features for cat litter boxes. The owner may have to choose which one will be most convenient for him and his cat.. Below are listed some basic designs for cat litter boxes:

-Basic flat box. This is the simple rectangular pan which is commonly made of plastic. They come in different depths, sizes and colors. This design is preferred by most cats. An innovation to this design whose is to hold the cat box liners in place by securing them under the rim.

-Covered cat boxes or hooded litter boxes. These cat litter boxes look like the traditional open-type rectangular pans except for the addition of the hood which partly covers the box. An opening is situated at one end of the box which serves as the entrance and exit way for the cat. The hood is also positioned high enough so that the cat can stand and do its job with ease and comfort. While they provide "privacy" for the pet, they tend to get very smelly because of poor ventilation inside. Manufacturers of this type of cat boxes have offered a solution to this problem. Some variants of the hooded type have vents on top plus a filter which aids in trapping odors. For this type of cat box, it is recommended that you choose one that is large enough to accommodate the pet, has a hood which can be easily maneuvered for easy cleaning, and large vents.

-Designer boxes. Also known as "hidden boxes", this type of litter box disguises itself as a furniture piece or even a plant. A designer litter box not only serves to be the cat's convenient toilet but it can also function as an accent for the room in which it is located. Although the containers are commonly not large enough, there are designs which are big and more open. These are the ones which are more ideal for use. Try to find one which provides good ventilation.

-Sifting Boxes. A few other variants of this type are available in the market but the basic model consists of two rectangular pans and a tray which acts as a sifter.

-Self-cleaning box. These electrical-powered high-end litter boxes work with a sensor which activates the self-cleaning machinery a few minutes after the cat has left the box. The cleaning machinery contains a rake which works its way along the litter to scoop out cat pee and poop into a waste receptacle. There is still the need to occasionally clean the unit, especially the cleaning mechanism itself.

Cost:

The basic flat box is the most affordable of all the designs mentioned. The self-cleaning box is obviously the most expensive and their guarantee commonly lasts for only one year. This can be a risk which the owner must consider before actually buying a unit.

Appealing to the Cat:

Cats generally do fine with the open box type. Covered boxes offer the "privacy" which some cats like but some cats feel trapped inside them. Owners of designer boxes may find it attractive to put them in places where they will be most appreciated. However, they must be sensitive to the fact that cats most often opt to do their business in a place which is quiet and safe. As for the automated self-cleaning cat litter boxes, some finicky cats may find them comfy since they are clean and spacious. However, they may get psyched out by the mechanical action if they chance to see it actually happen. They might be afraid of using the unit again.

Finding the perfect cat litter box may be a hard task and may require experimentation on the part of the owner. If the owner tries out a box which his pet really does not like, he should not insist on the cat using it. Though this experimentation may become tedious, it can be necessary to find the perfect box for your cat. Providing the cat its preferred litter box can bring good health and satisfaction to both owner and pet, and the carpet as well! We hope that you finished reading this article having learned at least a little bit of new information. If so, then we have done our job.

Heartworms in dogs what they are what to do

Heartworms (Latin name Dirofilaria immitis) are parasitic worms that are common in both dogs and cats. Like their name suggests, they live in the dog’s heart, normally free-floating in the right ventricle and nearby blood vessels. The worms are transmitted from dog to dog by mosquitoes which pass the worm larvae through their saliva. The presence of heartworms can be very dangerous to the dog’s health. Although the dog will not display signs of infection until it has progressed considerably, heartworms can be life threatening and are sometimes difficult to detect and diagnose.

Signs of Heartworm Infection

When a dog is first infected with heartworms, there are literally no signs and the presence of heartworms can not be detected even with a blood test. Once the worm larva reaches the heart and matures, however, signs that are detectible by X-ray start to develop almost immediately. These include damage to the blood vessels around the heart and lungs. It is rare that a dog will be infected by only one worm and as the mature worms in the heart grow in size and number, the conditions worsen, eventually causing a blockage of blood flow. It is at this point that the dog will start to display physical signs which can include pain, hypertension, difficulty breathing, lethargy or even fainting. In extremely progressed cases the dog can suffer from heart failure and death although by the time the heartworm disease has reached this stage the owner has probably realized that something is going on and sought veterinary care.

Treating Heartworm Infection

Once a dog has been diagnosed as having heartworms, treatment must be started. What this treatment is and how it is administered is dependant on the stage of heartworm infection. Generally, there are four stages of heartworm disease.

• Stage One – Dogs at the lowest risk – heartworms are detected in X-rays but all other tests appear normal.

• Stage Two – Dogs are moderately infected, may have some difficulty breathing and be demonstrating coughing

• Stage Three – Dogs are severely affected & may display weight loss, have difficulty breathing, blood tests likely show kidney and/or liver damage

• Stage Four – Dogs have Vena Cava Syndrome and are in shock, essentially dying – surgery may be undertaken to remove worms, but there is no guarantee that it will save the dog.

When it comes to heartworms in dogs, prevention truly is the best medicine. The best time to begin a preventative treatment is early in puppy-hood, before the dog is seven months old since dogs older than seven months are at a great risk for adverse reactions to the preventative treatments.

Dog supplements

What to Look For In a Dog Supplement

The market is exploding with products claiming to improve the health and wellness of individuals using vitamins and nutritional supplements. People are now seeking the same products to complement the health of their pets. The benefits of appropriate nutritional supplements are overwhelming and can add several healthy years to your life, as well as your dogs.

Dogs Age Faster Than People

Longevity is attributed 30 percent to genetics and 70 percent to lifestyle. Up to 90 percent of diseases in dogs are due to the degenerative processes associated with aging.

Does Your Dog Act His Age?

Because dogs age seven times faster than people, major health changes occur in a short amount of time. Dogs are considered puppies for about one year, adults from age two to six, and seniors at age seven. Giant breeds, like Great Danes, age even more quickly and are considered seniors at age five. Signs of aging in dogs occur slowly, but generally begin at maturity, somewhere between age one and two.

Dr. Denham Harman’s Free Radical Theory of Aging, applies to people and pets, including dogs. This universally accepted theory states that aging is a process in which the body’s systems deteriorate faster than the body can repair them.

The changes occur due to oxidative damage caused by harmful compounds called free radicals. Free radicals are toxic, electrically unstable molecules. As we age, they are produced more quickly.

Free radicals damage your dog’s body similar to the way oxygen causes iron to rust. They are detrimental to your dog’s genetic material, his DNA and RNA, his cell membranes and enzyme systems.

Free radicals are formed each time we take a breath. Exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet rays, as well as to environmental toxins, pollution, heavy metals and stress contribute to free radical formation. Your dog’s diet and drugs, such as antibiotics, are also factors.

Free radicals weaken your dog’s natural defenses and have been associated with the development of up to 90 percent of the age-related degenerative conditions we associate with aging:

Cancer

Heart disease

Arthritis

Diabetes

Cataracts

Premature aging

Our life span, as well as the length of your dog’s life, is ultimately determined by how quickly free radicals cause harmful oxidative changes to occur. Therefore what you feed your dog, as well as the supplements you choose for your dog are both very important.

Help Your Dog Enjoy a Longer, Healthier Life

Your Dog’s Diet

You are what you eat, and that’s just as important for people as it is for dogs. What you feed your dog directly affects his health and wellness. The longer and more consistently you give your dog an optimally balanced diet, the greater his chances are of living a longer, healthier life.

Dogs, like people are omnivores and can naturally exist on a diet of meat, fruit and vegetables. Consult with your vet to determine the best diet for your dog. Commercial varieties worth looking into include organic, natural diets such as Prairie made by Natures Variety.

Homemade, natural diets take more time and effort but in many cases are well worth the extra effort. Vegetarian and raw food diets are another option that, with careful supervision, may provide complete and balanced nutrition for your dog.

According to the Guinness Book of Records, a Border Collie in England named Taffy, lived to the spry age of 27 eating an all-natural, organic diet.

Healthy Dog Snacks

Fruits and vegetables are healthy, low calorie snacks many pets enjoy. Those rich in antioxidants are especially beneficial for your dog:

Oranges

Tomatoes

Sweet Potatoes

Carrots

Cantaloupe

Asparagus Tips

Oranges are rich in Vitamin C, tomatoes are filled with Lycopenes and sweet potatoes are a source of Vitamin E and Beta Carotene. Carrots and cantaloupes also provide Beta Carotene for your dog.

Antioxidant Supplements for Your Dog: Sooner Not Later

Recent research documents that antioxidants provide very bright prospects for increasing the quality and length of your dog’s life. In addition, scientists have found that sooner is better than later as far as your dog’s potential health benefits. Antioxidant supplementation started as a puppy, before free radical damage has occurred, can increase the healthy lifespan of your dog by up to 20 percent.

Antioxidant supplements, including Vitamins A, C, and E, the minerals Selenium and Zinc, and the nutrients Alpha Lipoic Acid and Coenzyme Q10, are the body’s natural defense against free radical damage. They can help to protect your dog by neutralizing free radicals and decreasing the resultant levels of oxidative damage.

Other noteworthy antioxidant supplements for your dog include:

Bioflavinoids, which help to decrease allergic reactions, asthmatic attacks and have anti-cancer benefits for your dog.

Green Tea, whose antioxidants may decrease the risk of heart disease and cancer and help protect the blood vessels nourishing your dog’s heart and brain.

Lutein, a plant pigment from marigolds, helps to protect your dog’s eyes and may reduce the risk of cataracts.

Melatonin, a potent antioxidant that acts to normalize sleep patterns. It also protects your dog’s brain and has been used successfully with cancer therapy.

The effects of antioxidants are beneficial and act synergistically for people and dog’s undergoing cancer therapy. In well controlled studies, people and pets treated with antioxidants (with or without chemotherapy and radiation) have tolerated treatments better and experienced less weight loss. More importantly, they enjoyed a better overall quality of life and lived longer than individuals receiving no supplements.

Nutritional Supplements for Your Dog’s Bones, Joints & Cartilage

Glucosamine is an amino sugar naturally produced in your dog’s body from glucose, which is your dog’s blood sugar, and the Amino Acid, Glutamine. It helps the cartilage between the joints retain water so the cartilage can act like a cushion to absorb shock and withstand compression. Glucosamine is vital to protecting the health and integrity of your dog’s bones, joints and cartilage. It helps to:

Decrease joint inflammation and pain

Promote cartilage repair

Aid healing of damaged joints

Increase mobility in dogs with arthritis and hip dysplasia

Glucosamine is also a normal component of the urinary bladder in dog’s and cat’s and may help to relieve urinary disorders.

MSM (methyl-sulfonyl-methane) is a natural source of sulfur that works along with Glucosamine to help protect the health and integrity of your dog’s bones, joints and cartilage.

Essential Fatty Acid Supplements for Your Dog

Essential Fatty Acids are vital to life and support all bodily functions in your dog. They help to keep cell membranes soft and pliable, so your pet’s cells can absorb dietary nutrients. They enhance your dog’s skin and hair coat and are needed for the normal development of the nervous system and brain.

Fatty Acids are vital to brain health and help to preserve mental clarity. They decrease the risk of Alzheimer’s disease and dementia in dogs, cats and people. Fatty Acids may reduce the risk of heart disease, stroke and high blood pressure, as well as provide therapeutic effects in your dog for:

Arthritis

Lupus

Inflammatory bowel disease

Cancer therapy

Kidney disorders

Flea allergies, food intolerances and bacterial skin infections can often be relieved by providing your dog with fatty acid supplements.

The proper balance of Fatty Acids helps to reduce wear and tear on your dog’s body by decreasing stress triggered increases in cholesterol and the stress hormone Cortisol. Research indicates that the ratio of 5:1 of Omega 6 to Omega 3 Fatty Acids seems to provide the greatest clinical benefits, surpassing that of any individual Fatty Acid alone.

Amino Acid Supplements for Your Dog

Glutamine is the most abundant Amino Acid in the body. It is the major energy source for the cells that line the digestive system and strengthens your dog’s natural defense system known as the immune system.

Glutamine promotes healing of the digestive system thereby reducing bowel disorders. It spares protein and reduces muscle loss during periods of injury, stress and high endurance activities. Therefore it is especially beneficial for pets recovering from trauma and for working and show dogs.

Glutamine also has many anti-aging effects. It helps to preserve memory and to prevent the harmful effects of Cortisol, the hormone that is responsible for accelerating the aging process in people and in your dog.

Digestive Enzyme Supplements for Your Dog

Digestive Enzymes are produced by the salivary glands, stomach, pancreas and liver and are released into the digestive tract. Enzymes help your dog’s body to breakdown proteins, fats and carbohydrates in his food so they can be absorbed and utilized.

Your dog’s production of enzymes naturally decreases with increasing age. Illnesses, stress, food intolerances, allergies and drugs like antibiotics also have a negative affect on enzyme production and function. This can result in a variety of digestive disturbances ranging from flatulence and gas to diarrhea, life threatening dehydration and malnutrition.

Digestive Enzymes are vital to maintain your dog’s overall health. They improve the efficiency of digestion so your pet’s body can utilize the nutrients essential for energy production and ultimately for life itself.

They help the body to recover from disease and promote restoration of good health in your dog. Enzymes are useful to reduce pain and swelling after exercise or trauma and help speed up recovery rates. Enzymes support your dog’s immune system thereby enhancing his ability to ward off disease and infection. They have been also been used effectively in cancer therapy for people and pets.

Papain is an enzyme that has aspirin-like effects to decrease swollen, painful inflamed tissues in your dog. Bromelain is an enzyme found in pineapple stems that inhibits the spread of lung cancer in mice.

Digestive Enzyme supplements may be beneficial in dogs with digestive problems, immune disorders including rheumatoid arthritis and arthritis, cancer and a variety of bowel disorders. They are especially useful in older dogs with reduced digestive ability.

The Anti-Aging “A” Supplement List For Your Dog:

Vitamin A/Beta Carotene: Antioxidant enhances immunity, essential for your dog to utilize protein in his diet

Vitamin C: Antioxidant, needed for tissue growth and repair, enhances immunity, needed for your dog’s body to utilize Vitamin E.

Vitamin E: Antioxidant, prevents heart disease, promotes wound healing, needed for your dog’s body to utilize Vitamin C.

B-Complex Vitamins: As a group, B vitamins help your dog to maintain healthy nerves, skin and muscle.

Coenzyme Q-10: A powerful, newly discovered antioxidant. Essential for immune function, beneficial in heart disease and gum/dental disease for your dog.

Alpha Lipoic Acid: Antioxidant. Helps your dog to restore energy metabolism.

Selenium: Antioxidant. Works with Vitamin E to help your dog fight infection. Beneficial to dog’s skin and hair coats. Deficiencies linked to cancer and heart disease.

Zinc: Essential mineral your dog needs for protein synthesis, promotes healthy immune system, aids wound healing. Critical for hundreds of biological processes in the body.

Omega 3 & 6 Fatty Acids: Essential component of cell membranes in your dog and is needed for healthy heart, brain function and skin and hair coats.

Bioflavinoids: Enhances absorption of Vitamin C, has antioxidant effects and promotes normal blood circulation for your dog.

Glucosamine and MSM: Promotes normal healthy bones, joints and cartilage for your dog.

Digestive Enzymes: Essential for your dog to utilize and absorb nutrients from his/her diet.

Melatonin: Immune modulator, antioxidant, triggers restful sleep for your dog.

Ginseng: A metabolic tonic to promote brain health and overall wellness for your dog.

L-Glutamine: Amino acid needed for your dog to energize the cells of his digestive system so dietary nutrients can be properly absorbed and utilized.

Colostrum: The first milk your puppy receives from his mother. Provides your dog with antibodies to protect him against disease and aid immune function.

Exercise: 20 minutes twice a day minimum for your dog.

Balanced, natural diet: Feed your dog at least two meals daily. Fresh organic and natural sources are best.

Relaxation: Stress and anxiety affect pets and people adversely. Set aside an hour a day to relax and enjoy your dog. Consider massage, yoga and music.

Positive mental attitude: The mind-body connection is a potent promoter of well-being for you and your dog.

Pure water: Fresh, non-chlorinated water is essential for people and for your dog.

Teaching dog agility weaves with a weave chute

There are many methods to teach dogs how to weave. Having attended a variety of agility camps and agility seminars, I've seen quite a few of the top handlers present their preferred method of weave training. Their training techniques vary, but the one thing they do have in common, the end result, their dogs all weave fast and efficiently.

The Weave Chute is one method of training weaves. The Weave Chute is a structure where the weave poles pull apart and the dog runs down the middle channel. The weave poles are setup on a base either PVC or metal, the even number poles pull back to the same side and the odd numbered poles pull apart to the same side. The poles are brought closer together, training a chain of sessions, until the weave poles are in a straight line.

To start, the weave poles are about 3 feet apart. Set your dog on a Stay (Sit, Down, or Stand). Leave your dog and go to the other end of the chute or channel. Call your dog, allow them to run as fast as they can through the chute, when they get near you through a toy straight ahead or between your legs. You want them to keep moving past you and not slow up as they get near you.

Move the weaves closer together, try 2 feet for a few sessions, then 1 foot apart for a few sessions. When the weaves are about 1 foot apart your dog will begin to actually begin the weaving behavior, depending on the size of your dog of course. This is the stage to add guide wires. The guide wires help the dog stay on path through the weaves. Your dogs speed will most likely slow a little in this stage. This is all right, he is thinking more and feeling the weaves against him for the first time.

You are still using your Stay at one end of the weaves, leaving your dog and going to the other end of the weaves and calling him through. Make sure your dog is successfully coming to you through the weave path, not jumping over the guide wires and running to you. If this happens replace him. If it happens again, go back and open the weave chute a little more. Practice until he can come to you down the weave chute with 70% to 80% accuracy, not many of us are 100% right in everything we try. Begin moving the weave poles closer together in inches now. Most dogs do well even if the weaves are off set by one inch , but somehow when they are setup in a line, they must look different and training sessions may seem stalled for awhile. Be patient, practice with your weaves offset by one inch then in a straight line, if you encounter problems, go back to the one inch offset. Your dog will soon realize he can weave when the poles are in a straight line.

The next transition is taking off the guide wires. With 12 poles, you use 10 guide wires. The first guide wires I remove are from the middle. The last ones to be removed are the entry and exit guide wires. Weaving is mentally challenging to you and your dog, so be patient with your dog and yourself. Be prepared to put in a few long months of training to get those fast and efficient weaves.